| Sergei Arsentiev Human Mummy | |
| |
| Biographical Information | |
|---|---|
| Name(s) | 'Snow Leopard' |
| Age | 39-40 |
| Sex | Male |
| Status | Mountain Climber |
| Height | 5'9" - 5'11" |
| Source | |
| Culture | Russian |
| Date(s) | 1953 - May 24, 1998 |
| Site | St. Petersburg, Russia |
| Current Location | |
| Location | Mount Everest, Solukhumbu District, Sagarmatha, Nepal |
| Catalog # | Unknown |
On May 17, the husband-and-wife team of Serguei Anatolievich Arsentiev and Francys Distefano-Arsentiev started from ABC to the North Col with members of their Russian expedition. On May 18, Serguei, Francys and Boris Slepikovsky ascended to 7700 meters. On May 19, Serguei and Francys ascended to 8200 meters.
On May 20, they made an attempt to climb to the top, but turned back at the First Step (ca. 8600m). Anatoli Moshnikov, a member of their team, saw them from 8200 meters at about 3 p.m. descending from the ridge. When Serguei reached the couple’s tent, he went to Moshnikov’s tent and explained to him that because of dead headlamp batteries, they had started at 6:30 a.m., but that they would try again tomorrow. Moshnikov gave him an extra battery and offered to come with them.
On May 21, Serguei and Francys tried to go up again but only managed 50-100 meters before returning to the tents. Moshnikov returned from the summit at about 6 p.m. Serguei congratulated him on his success and again complained of dead batteries. Moshnikov tried to persuade Serguei to descend, but Serguei declined, telling him that they were fine.
On May 22, Serguei and Francys departed, perhaps as early as 2 or 3 a.m. Rustam Radgapov (a member of the Uzbekistan expedition) passed them on the steep snow slope below the summit ridge (8750 - 8800m) at about 3:30 or 4 p.m. Francys’s pace was slow; she sat down very often. Radgapov was on the top at 4:45. About 5:45 p.m., on his descent, Radgapov met Serguei and Francys on the gentle slope near the rocks 100 meters from the top. Francys’ pace was slower. Radgapov went with them for about 50 meters back toward the top, trying to persuade them to turn around because it was quite late. Serguei told him not to worry, that they felt good and had a cache down below between the First and Second Steps that included a bottle of oxygen, a tent and some warm clothing. Radgapov saw the cache at about 8630 meters on his descent, but though it included the bottle of oxygen, the backpack was otherwise nearly empty. Later the tent was found at 7700 meters. Radgapov descended to 8200 meters at 8:30 p.m. The last time he saw them was at the Second Step (8750m) at 7:30 p.m. on their descent. It is assumed Serguei and Francys were on top at 6:15 p.m. They apparently descended to their cache at 8630 meters, where they spent the night without a tent.
On May 23, Oleg Grigoriev, Andrei Fedorov, Serguei Sokolov, Svetlana Baskakova and Marat Usaev, members of the Uzbekistan expedition, started up from 8200 meters at 6 a.m. They had ten bottles of oxygen with them. At about 9:35 a.m. at 8450 meters, they met Serguei Arsentiev, who asked the group: “Where is my wife? Did she not come down?” They answered in the negative. Serguei started to descend to the tents without saying anything, and they continued their ascent. Serguei would not return.
On May 24, his ice axe and rope were found near where his wife, Francys, was found deceased the same day. Serguei was missing, but presumed dead.
Mummification[]
His frozen body remains on Everest with more than 200 other mountain fatalities.
Additional[]
He had undertaken a remarkable feat by conquering the five highest peaks in the former Soviet Union, showcasing his unparalleled expertise.
In 1992, Serguei tied the knot with Francys Distefano-Arsentiev, forming a formidable duo that embarked on numerous breathtaking climbs together. Notable among their joint achievements was the first ascent of Peak 5800m, a monumental peak they christened as Peak Goodwill, and a victorious journey up Denali via the West Buttress, further solidifying their mountaineering legacy.
Serguei Arsentiev's body was found over a year after his death, having succumbed to the harsh climates on his journey to rescue his wife.
References[]
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/47710039/Serguei-arsentiev https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937100/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-North-Ridge-Ascent-and-Tragedy